Julio Moncada’s life took a decisive turn the day he first walked into a London pub. “I saw these things on the bar, these handpumps,” he says. “I'd never seen them before. I said to the barman: ‘What is that? Can I try it?’
"It
was completely different to what I was used to, so full of flavour and aroma.
It just blew my mind. From that day on, I have been drinking cask
ales, I have been trying different beers all the time. I haven’t stopped
since.”
That was in 2001. 12 years on, Moncada is not only
a keen drinker of cask ale but a producer, too, having set up his eponymous
brewery in Kensal Green just under two years’ ago. It’s not something that the
35-year-old would have predicted when he left his hometown of Villa Mercedes in
the Argentine province of San Luis. That part of the world is better known for
its wine: Moncada grew up near to Argentina’s
most famous wine region, Mendoza.
“Becoming a brewer was an accident more than a
plan,” he says, smiling. “I didn’t think I would ever own a brewery. [After I came to the UK] I was a homebrewer
for five years: I was more into cooking, I wanted to become a chef. I did
different courses and worked in different restaurants around London to get
experience. But it was very demanding ...
“It was after a course at [brewing training
centre] Brewlab in Sunderland that I decided to just be a brewer: on the train
back, I phoned my wife and said: ‘Forgot about the deli. This is what I want to
do’.”
If brewing English beer (Moncada currently
produce seven beers, all of them in traditional British styles) in London is
an imaginative choice for an Argentine, it seems plenty of his countrymen have
also been converted to craft beer. Moncada is a regular visitor to his home
country – where Quilmes, a flavour-light pale lager, is ubiquitous - and made
his latest trip home in April.
“There’s actually a town in Cordoba, they do the Oktoberfest, it’s a German colony. They start exactly the same day as in Bavaria. That was one of the first places I really enjoyed beer, I went when I was 17. After that, I was going every year.”
Moncada is now a Londoner. The beer may be
improving in Argentina, but he has no plans to return. “I’m established here,”
he says. “My kids were born in London.
This is my home. I don’t see myself moving out.”
“At the last LBA meeting, we had another 10
planning applications to go ahead. By the end of this year, there should be at
least another five new breweries. In 2014, there will be more. It keeps going
up and up.”
“It is more difficult in West London,” Moncada
admits. “Often, we need to do business over there [in East London], but there
are lots of microbreweries there, too. I’m like a foreigner!”
With the business thriving (Moncada, who along
with brewer Sam Dicksion does all the work for now, is aiming to increase
capacity and take on new staff soon), says this presents a problem. “Our
biggest challenge now is to find and convince new pubs around here to stock our
beer,” he says. “We have the problem with the tied pubs, there are so many
around here.”
Perhaps some new beers will convince local
publicans to take a chance on a local brewery. Although Moncada concentrate on
English styles for now, that won’t always be the case. “We don’t want to get
stuck in a routine,” says Moncada.
If that sounds like fun, it clearly is. Moncada
is soon to open a bar at the brewery (initially one Friday a month, but perhaps
more often depending on demand) and the atmosphere at the brewery is happy and
optimistic. “I’m really having fun,” says Moncada. “This job has stressful
elements – we want it to be a success, to stay in business for many years to
come - but I’m having a good time.”
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